good food | Authentic vs. Reproduction – does it work in restaurants?

January 25th, 2010

I actually used a BOGO coupon tonight at The Counter, a new burger joint that opened just before the holidays in the ‘Ballard Blocks’ just a few blocks away from us. Max and I ate there once before, about a month ago, and we both thought it was ‘good’ so with another coupon (sent to me via a Facebook promo) it seemed like a ‘good’ idea to go there tonight.

The burger menu is – well – it has far too many choices that customers are supposed to enjoy checking off boxes with cute little pencils. The type of meat, size of the burger “Those weights are the cooked weight.” the waiter dutifully told us.  There are at least a dozen cheeses to choose from, choose 4 veggie toppings with your burger and only $.50 for each additional choice, and only $1 for “Premium” toppings. Then the type of bun and for goodness sakes even the sauces require you to choose between something like 15 choices.  Oh sure, the waiter was just fine and helped us through it all, and tit didn’t take too long nor did he try to up sell us into cocktails, etc.  But for all that the result was a good burger – so what?

Seriously. Is this the best they can do? I mean it’s ground meat, grilled with a bunch-a-stuff piled on it. And, for all the fanfare, it’s just too pricey for burgers. Especially a chain. I assume it’s a chain. It felt like a chain. There’s probably a district manager who travels around to visit all the ‘stores’ each week or day. And managers are in a career path to get a better store and more responsibility.  But where’s the love? I describe restaurants that work like this as having “picture” cooks – they cook the food and present it on a plate according to a picture pasted on the wall in front of them. They don’t necessarily understand the meat, why it browns, is seasoned a certain way, or stuff like that. The cooks are there for the job and simply go through the motions they were taught by the company’s regional district managing cook who visits every month to ensure they are cooking to standard.

For the same money as I spent here tonight – by the way, even with the BOGO coupon the bill for two burgers, a half/half side of sweet potato fries and onion rings and one chocolate shake – was $37.00 plus tip.  If we all woulda had shakes and paid for the burger the charge for three burgers, side of fires and 3 shakes is in excess of $50. FIFTY BUCKS!

I could go see Scott and Allegra just a few more blocks away at their place – Lunch Box Laboratory – where Scott is a creative crazy man in the kitchen and the burgers are, honestly, better. OK, maybe not better (remember ground meat grilled and served on a bun) and the Lunch Box Laboratory seating leaves something to be desired. For example, last winter it was hilariously not funny to be wearing coats indoors and we could see our breath. But I think they have that draft situation fixed. And their burgers are prepared with and by folks who really care that you are there. AND THE MONEY GOES INTO THEIR POCKET!

This is important stuff dammit!

Or if I want to change it up a bit and take just a short drive over the Ballard Bridge  there is one of two Red Mill hamburger locations. They are fast, good, and – like Lunch Box, locally owned. Heck – please don’t get me wrong. I enjoy fast food burgers from joints like Dick’s (Seattle), Burgerville (Portland, OR) and In-N-Out (California mostly) – and accept their somewhat homogenized take on this basic sandwich. And I’ll pay a few extra sheckles for a “gourmet” burger at LBL or Red Mill.

But, when that simple idea of a good burger inspires someone to call it a “concept” and duplicate it across America by corporate expansion or franchise – why do I balk at it? Why do I pretty much reject it?

For instance when Red Robin was the little dive tavern with outstanding burgers near the University of Washington overlooking the ship canal at the University Bridge here in Seattle – I loved it. But you won’t catch me going there now cause it’s all so produced.

And maybe that carries over into other food situation. I enjoy going to the several local smallish groups of grocery stores like Metropolitan Market or Town & Country (Ballard Market, etc.) but the chain stores drive me off. I do shop there but with a different attitude. Why is that?

My favorite coffee isn’t to be found at Starbucks – which I was crazy for back in the late 70′s when it was a one store location in Pike Place Market and only the cool restaurants served Starbucks instead of Boyd’s or other institutional coffees. But now? I have a local fella who knows a fella in charge of the roasting process at a small one-shop coffee roaster and I buy my beans from him. Sheese. I never thought of myself as being a food snob before.

What about you – how do you feel about food prepared that is an authentic example of a region or one-of-a-kind restaurant vs. a chain?

Can you help me articulate this feeling?

~blm

good food
Barbeque in Seattle: Part 1

January 24th, 2010

I have gone to quite a few (though not all) of the BBQ joints that are within a short distance of my home. Save for one location – called the Roadhouse – that is nearly 2 hours away, I try not to make a big deal outta it. My son and I generally just go to a place when we are thinking ‘q’ for lunch or dinner and don’t have any in the house.

Here are a couple of spots in the immediate area:

  • Pecos BBQ Pit: open for lunch Mon-Fri with decently good pulled pork, hot links and brisket. But the only wood used is alder and I kinda think that can be a bit sour. Also the meat is over sauced.
  • Texas Style BBQ: open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner. You smell smoke when you walk in the door and it’s good smoke. The pulled pork and brisket are good, chicken very good – and I order them without sauce cause I like to taste the meat to determine what I’m really eating. Good smoke ring and nice folks, husband & wife, who run the place.
  • Casper’s: Mostly fried gator, catfish, shrimp and it’s darn good. Nobody up here knows how to fry food like you find near the gulf coast. The pulled pork is OUTSTANDING. It’s been too long since I enjoyed authentic tasty red beans & rice, so my tasty-buds may be off a bit – but there’s is some Really good stuff. And the guy who runs the place is all that you can ask for in a bbq shack. visits, tells stories, jokes with the pretty girls and grandpa style with the kids.
  • 3 Pigs BBQ: I was one of their first customers when they opened the doors in 1987. Good pulled pork and brisket. The brothers who run the place have pretty much turned over the kitchen to hired help and the gals behind the counter have the personality of a napkin — so don’t expect to be treated exceptionally well with a smile and hospitality. But the food is good – if not just a little less than it was more than 20 years ago when they started and were winning contests. Like too many places, in my opinion at least, they may as well cook the meat in an oven instead of smoke – cause they over sauce.
  • Ro-Ro BBQ: Can’t smell smoke at all – even when they are smoking. Meat is OK but not outstanding. Cornbread is good. And the beans are decent. But the meat – it’s always about the meat – is just OK.

more to come…..

good food
Pocketbook Power
Supporting Sustainability
Farming, Ranching, Fishing & Harvesting

November 3rd, 2009

Ducks Unlimited - Sustainability

Ducks Unlimited = Conservation

I’ve never fired a gun at a duck, or for that matter at any animal. But I belonged to Ducks Unlimited for more than a decade. Why? Well first of all I love to cook wild game birds and, secondly – I believe in their cause.  I also really appreciate that hunters were working together to protect wet lands so the birds would flourish and  as an approach so they could enjoy their sport. Sustainability.

Likewise, at least in my mind, I support my local farmer’s and try to purchase from several each week. I also purchase from major grocery store chains and have begun choosing the products grown and processed in the U.S. and Canada. (My tomatoes come from Canada nearly year-round, can you believe that?)

Why? Well – it’s just a good thing to do. Sustainability and jobs.

I live in what was once a small fishing village called Ballard. It’s now a neighborhood of a much larger Seattle. As a kid many of my friends dad’s, uncles and grandfathers were commercial fisherman. Most of the boys looked forward to being old enough when they too could spend time working on the boats. But as my childhood buddies began to reach that magic age – the fishing seasons were shorter and the boats had to travel much further to complete their catch.  Even 30 years ago the fish were not as plentiful as they once were just a few short years before.

Fast forward and talk to the folks who live along any coast line of North America and they will tell a similar story – the area has lost much of the local fishing fleet. Some of it has gone the way of larger and more economical commercial fleets – but much of it is gone because the fish are not as plentiful and the fisherman couldn’t make a living.

Mahi Mahi - excellent fish to grill!

Mahi Mahi - excellent fish to grill!

What to do? I still love fish – and other seafood – shall I purchase stuff at my grocer that comes from who-knows-where? OR—

Enter the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Program. I’ve come to regard it as a version of Ducks Unlimited – but for seafood.  Here’s a snippet from their press kit:

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch

It was once thought that the ocean’s supply of seafood could never be exhausted. Today, an ever-increasing demand for seafood is putting our oceans under severe pressure worldwide. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program works to broaden awareness of the links between the seafood on our plates and the health of our oceans as it helps consumers and businesses choose seafood that supports environmentally responsible fishing and fish farming practices. It’s a buying decision that can contribute directly to ocean health.”

“Fisheries conservation is one of the most important marine conservation issues today,” says aquarium Executive Director Julie Packard. “It’s an environmental problem whose solution is in people’s hands every time they buy seafood. Through Seafood Watch, we want to give people the information they need to make wise choices when they shop.”

A while back I posted a photo and story featuring grilled prawns. My friend and Guest Chef Terry “Way Down in Alabama” wrote to remind me that I better be using U.S. caught Gulf Prawns! You see he lives along the Gulf Coast – an area hit hard by some of the problems I’ve mentioned. I assured him I was.  They were clearly marked on the package that I purchased in the freezer at Kroger.

Seafood Watch Guides - PDF files

Using the Seafood Watch guidelines I decided that I could purchase seafood that was on the Seafood Watch list as being in healthy supply – and that simple act on my part would both support the sustainability of fisheries and help the fisherman who earn their livelihood by catching it.  A win-win situation.

If you are interested, want to learn more and wish to down load the latest PDF of their sustainable seafood list, check out Seafood Watch.

Or if you would like to tell me I’m full of hot air – please leave a comment or send me a note. I’m always open to learning!

~blm


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