I actually used a BOGO coupon tonight at The Counter, a new burger joint that opened just before the holidays in the ‘Ballard Blocks’ just a few blocks away from us. Max and I ate there once before, about a month ago, and we both thought it was ‘good’ so with another coupon (sent to me via a Facebook promo) it seemed like a ‘good’ idea to go there tonight.

The burger menu is – well – it has far too many choices that customers are supposed to enjoy checking off boxes with cute little pencils. The type of meat, size of the burger “Those weights are the cooked weight.” the waiter dutifully told us.  There are at least a dozen cheeses to choose from, choose 4 veggie toppings with your burger and only $.50 for each additional choice, and only $1 for “Premium” toppings. Then the type of bun and for goodness sakes even the sauces require you to choose between something like 15 choices.  Oh sure, the waiter was just fine and helped us through it all, and tit didn’t take too long nor did he try to up sell us into cocktails, etc.  But for all that the result was a good burger – so what?

Seriously. Is this the best they can do? I mean it’s ground meat, grilled with a bunch-a-stuff piled on it. And, for all the fanfare, it’s just too pricey for burgers. Especially a chain. I assume it’s a chain. It felt like a chain. There’s probably a district manager who travels around to visit all the ’stores’ each week or day. And managers are in a career path to get a better store and more responsibility.  But where’s the love? I describe restaurants that work like this as having “picture” cooks – they cook the food and present it on a plate according to a picture pasted on the wall in front of them. They don’t necessarily understand the meat, why it browns, is seasoned a certain way, or stuff like that. The cooks are there for the job and simply go through the motions they were taught by the company’s regional district managing cook who visits every month to ensure they are cooking to standard.

For the same money as I spent here tonight – by the way, even with the BOGO coupon the bill for two burgers, a half/half side of sweet potato fries and onion rings and one chocolate shake – was $37.00 plus tip.  If we all woulda had shakes and paid for the burger the charge for three burgers, side of fires and 3 shakes is in excess of $50. FIFTY BUCKS!

I could go see Scott and Allegra just a few more blocks away at their place – Lunch Box Laboratory – where Scott is a creative crazy man in the kitchen and the burgers are, honestly, better. OK, maybe not better (remember ground meat grilled and served on a bun) and the Lunch Box Laboratory seating leaves something to be desired. For example, last winter it was hilariously not funny to be wearing coats indoors and we could see our breath. But I think they have that draft situation fixed. And their burgers are prepared with and by folks who really care that you are there. AND THE MONEY GOES INTO THEIR POCKET!

This is important stuff dammit!

Or if I want to change it up a bit and take just a short drive over the Ballard Bridge  there is one of two Red Mill hamburger locations. They are fast, good, and – like Lunch Box, locally owned. Heck – please don’t get me wrong. I enjoy fast food burgers from joints like Dick’s (Seattle), Burgerville (Portland, OR) and In-N-Out (California mostly) – and accept their somewhat homogenized take on this basic sandwich. And I’ll pay a few extra sheckles for a “gourmet” burger at LBL or Red Mill.

But, when that simple idea of a good burger inspires someone to call it a “concept” and duplicate it across America by corporate expansion or franchise – why do I balk at it? Why do I pretty much reject it?

For instance when Red Robin was the little dive tavern with outstanding burgers near the University of Washington overlooking the ship canal at the University Bridge here in Seattle – I loved it. But you won’t catch me going there now cause it’s all so produced.

And maybe that carries over into other food situation. I enjoy going to the several local smallish groups of grocery stores like Metropolitan Market or Town & Country (Ballard Market, etc.) but the chain stores drive me off. I do shop there but with a different attitude. Why is that?

My favorite coffee isn’t to be found at Starbucks – which I was crazy for back in the late 70’s when it was a one store location in Pike Place Market and only the cool restaurants served Starbucks instead of Boyd’s or other institutional coffees. But now? I have a local fella who knows a fella in charge of the roasting process at a small one-shop coffee roaster and I buy my beans from him. Sheese. I never thought of myself as being a food snob before.

What about you – how do you feel about food prepared that is an authentic example of a region or one-of-a-kind restaurant vs. a chain?

Can you help me articulate this feeling?

~blm

I have gone to quite a few (though not all) of the BBQ joints that are within a short distance of my home. Save for one location – called the Roadhouse – that is nearly 2 hours away, I try not to make a big deal outta it. My son and I generally just go to a place when we are thinking ‘q’ for lunch or dinner and don’t have any in the house.

Here are a couple of spots in the immediate area:

• Pecos BBQ Pit: open for lunch Mon-Fri with decently good pulled pork, hot links and brisket. But the only wood used is alder and I kinda think that can be a bit sour. Also the meat is over sauced.
• Texas Style BBQ: open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner. You smell smoke when you walk in the door and it’s good smoke. The pulled pork and brisket are good, chicken very good – and I order them without sauce cause I like to taste the meat to determine what I’m really eating. Good smoke ring and nice folks, husband & wife, who run the place.
• Casper’s: Mostly fried gator, catfish, shrimp and it’s darn good. Nobody up here knows how to fry food like you find near the gulf coast. The pulled pork is OUTSTANDING. It’s been too long since I enjoyed authentic tasty red beans & rice, so my tasty-buds may be off a bit – but there’s is some Really good stuff. And the guy who runs the place is all that you can ask for in a bbq shack. visits, tells stories, jokes with the pretty girls and grandpa style with the kids.
• 3 Pigs BBQ: I was one of their first customers when they opened the doors in 1987. Good pulled pork and brisket. The brothers who run the place have pretty much turned over the kitchen to hired help and the gals behind the counter have the personality of a napkin — so don’t expect to be treated exceptionally well with a smile and hospitality. But the food is good – if not just a little less than it was more than 20 years ago when they started and were winning contests. Like too many places, in my opinion at least, they may as well cook the meat in an oven instead of smoke – cause they over sauce.
• Ro-Ro BBQ: Can’t smell smoke at all – even when they are smoking. Meat is OK but not outstanding. Cornbread is good. And the beans are decent. But the meat – it’s always about the meat – is just OK.

more to come…..